Tour de France Champion Cadel Evans’ “Route du Bonheur” by bike in Provence
I am proud of having come to know the region well, as I was lucky enough, in 2010 and 2011, to stay at the hotel La Coquillade for training and relaxation. It was, in a sense, a kind of heaven on Earth.
First stage: the gentleness of Occitan
The “Route du Bonheur”, or Road of Happiness, starts at the Hotel Crillon Le Brave. It is more than a hotel; it is a small village with seven stone houses. After tasting its delightful Provence dishes, a visit to the village of Beaumes de Venise is a must. The route that takes you there runs along the Dentelles de Montmirail and its vine-clad slopes. I can recommend the highly reputed Muscat of Beaumes-de-Venise, a fortified wine that you can taste in one of the many cellars in the village.
Then comes the encounter with Mont Ventoux; the two routes up it are, to my mind, amongst the nicest in France, whether by car … or by bicycle!
Between Mont Ventoux and the Luberon you will be delighted to discover the route which winds along the Nesque Gorges, between Sault and Villes sur Auzon with its lavender fields.
Second stage: Haute Provence in the heart of a garden full of fragrances
In Mane, Le Couvent des Minimes & Spa, a former 17th century Franciscan convent welcomes you for a break surrounded by fragrances of lavender. Enjoy the delights of the Mediterranean inspired cuisine and the L’Occitane Spa which makes you forget all your efforts on the bike.
The Prieuré de Salagon is the next stop. I suggest that you park your bike for a visit to the museum of the ethnological heritage of Haute Provence and a stroll through the gardens of Salagon.
On the route to Saint-Michel, some small domes dotting the prairie-like landscape will no doubt have caught your attention. They are part of an astronomical observatory set up at the end of the 1930s because of the very clear skies. A wonderful opportunity to learn more about the mysteries of the stars.
Third stage: an encounter with nature, vineyards and fine dining
Perched on a Luberon hill, in a former hamlet that has been turned into a prestigious hotel, La Coquillade is one of my favourite hotels: it has a huge charm and splendid views, perfect comfort with a blend of traditional and contemporary décor. Its stunning wines are produced on the estate of the hotel making it a dream stop for a wine tour. And if you want relaxation there's always the pool, massages, the tennis courts and of course bike rides along the country roads of Provence.
Racing and mountain bikes are available at La Coquillade to enjoy a 60 km ride through the ochre landscapes of the Roussillon, the tiered houses in Gordes (my personal favourite) and the Ménerbes attractions. On the way, vineyards and orchards will confirm that you are indeed in the heart of plenty.
For the real pros La Coquillade and the famous Swiss highend bike brand BMC offer a 200 m² space dedicated to activities around the bike. http://www.provence-cycling-paradise.com and http://www.bmc-racing.com/int-en
Before you reach Lourmarin, I can recommend the discovery of the inventive and spirited cuisine of Grand Chef Relais & Châteaux Edouard Loubet at the Bastide de Capelongue in Bonnieux.
The last stage or farniente in the Provence of Nostradamus
In the middle of the “garrigue”, the typical landscape, overlooking the Provence countryside, the Abbaye de Sainte-Croix seduces with its architecture of a former convent, its cosy rooms, its huge terrace overlooking Salon and Mount Sainte-Victoire. Its gourmet restaurant offers the opportunity to sample an inspired cuisine and more lively counterpart is offered by La Passerelle, the attractive wine and tapas bar under the stone vaults.
The Abbaye de Sainte-Croix has some astonishing recumbent bicycles available for hire. From the hotel several itineraries are proposed either to charming little villages or better known villages in the Alpilles, such as Eyguières, Maussane and Aureille.
Between Salon and Aix, you should not miss the Domaine de Château-Bas in Cazan, a very fine wine growing estate with the Roman remains of a temple to the goddess Diana.
The arrival in Aix-en-Provence will enthuse you with the elegant architecture of its town houses, delightful squares with fountains at their centre, its café terraces, its markets … the quintessence of Provençal art de vivre.
More details on this Route du Bonheur on: http://www.relaischateaux.com/en/Route-du-Bonheur/Provence/itineraire-velo-cadel-evans/1899/
The Route du Bonheur in Provence by Cadel Evans of four nights is proposed at a rate from EUR 932* onwards.
*Indicative rate per person for a stay of four nights in a double room with the Discovery & Savours offer (one night in a classical or superior double room, dinner with beverages and breakfast). Minimum rate, subject to availability.
About Relais & Châteaux:
Relais & Châteaux is an exclusive collection of around 500 of the finest charming hotels and gourmet restaurants in 60 countries.
Established in France in 1954, the Association’s mission is to spread its unique art de vivre across the globe by selecting outstanding properties with a truly unique character.
Furthermore, Relais & Châteaux is also a family of hoteliers and Grands Chefs from all over the world who share a passion for and a personal commitment to ensuring their guests are privy to moments of exceptional harmony, an unforgettable celebration of the senses.
From the vineyards in Napa valley to the beaches in Bali, from the olive trees in Provence to the lodges in South Africa, Relais & Châteaux offers all the stops on the finest route for discovering each special place and country.
The Relais & Châteaux signature reflects this ambition: “ALL AROUND THE WORLD, UNIQUE IN THE WORLD”.
All around the World, unique in the World
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